China's Textile Industry: A Gigatonne Journey with Sustainability Challenges

China's textile industry has produced over 1 billion tonnes of fibres in four decades, fueling global garment supply and economic growth. A Tsinghua University study highlights China's rapid transformation and significant waste issues, with 30% of textiles discarded and only 17% recycled, primarily into lower-quality products. Globally, textile production and environmental costs are rising, with fashion contributing up to 8% of CO₂ emissions. Researchers advocate for a circular economy, discouraging fast fashion and promoting sustainability across the textile supply chain.

Over the past four decades, China has emerged as a dominant force in the global textile industry, producing over a gigatonne—1 billion tonnes—of textile fibres. This staggering figure is equivalent to roughly twice the combined weight of the global human population. A recent groundbreaking study by researchers at Tsinghua University sheds light on the economic, societal, and environmental implications of this massive production milestone.

The study, published in the peer-reviewed journal Resources, Conservation and Recycling, meticulously tracks the flow and accumulation of textile fibres in China from 1978 to 2022. This period coincided with China's transformation from an isolated economy into the world's foremost garment producer, fueling domestic economic growth and providing affordable clothing to consumers worldwide.

However, the research also highlights a pressing issue: nearly 30% of textiles used in China have ended up as waste, with recycling efforts remaining limited. The waste recovery rate in China stands at just 17%, with much of this material being "downcycled"—converted into products of lower value or quality. For comparison, the global textile waste recovery rate is estimated at 12%, according to the United Nations Environment Programme.

Unveiling the Industry's Footprint

Tracking the environmental and material flows of China's vast textile industry has long been a challenge for policymakers and researchers. To address this, the study utilized a method called “dynamic material flow analysis” to monitor the production, use, and disposal of textiles.

Professor Zhu Bing, the study’s corresponding author and a chemical engineering expert at Tsinghua University, emphasized the importance of their findings. "Our team is the first to quantify the entire supply chain of this sector in China in such a dynamic and comprehensive manner," Zhu said. As head of Tsinghua’s Institute for Circular Economy, Zhu also noted that the research lays the groundwork for evaluating the recycling potential of textile waste and developing future policies.

The Growing Global Textile Industry

Globally, textile fibre production has soared from 33 million tonnes in 1975 to 116 million tonnes in 2022 and is projected to grow by another 27% by 2030. This explosive growth comes with significant environmental costs. The fashion industry is responsible for 2–8% of worldwide carbon dioxide emissions and generated 92 million tonnes of waste in 2015 alone.

Textile fibres fall into three main categories: synthetic, natural, and artificial cellulosic. Synthetic fibres, derived from petrochemical or agricultural polymers, contribute to carbon emissions and microplastic pollution. Meanwhile, natural fibres like cotton, hemp, wool, and silk demand substantial water, soil, and pesticide use, which also take a toll on ecosystems. Artificial cellulosic fibres, produced through chemical processes that transform natural cellulose, involve harmful substances during manufacturing.

The complexity of the global textile supply chain makes it difficult to fully measure its environmental footprint. British researchers, in a study published in Environmental Science and Technology, noted that understanding and communicating the industry's global impact is essential for advancing public awareness of sustainability issues.

Toward a Circular Economy

Despite growing advocacy for "circular fashion"—a model emphasizing recycling, minimal waste, and sustainability—Professor Zhu cautioned that broader socio-economic factors must also be considered. He argued that society must discourage fast fashion practices while promoting thoughtful consumption and balancing international trade with recycling efforts.

"Our research underscores the complexity of the textile industry and aims to provide a scientific basis for future policies," Zhu explained. He urged policymakers to adopt a holistic view of the supply chain, recognizing its interconnections with other industries.

As the global textile sector continues to expand, addressing its environmental challenges will require coordinated efforts across governments, industries, and consumers. The insights from this study mark an important step toward achieving sustainability in one of the world’s most resource-intensive industries.