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Dior's upcoming show in Mumbai deciphers India’s sweet spot in a global luxury market

A week ago, Dior announced Mumbai as the location for its Pre-Fall 2023 show. It is meant to be a continuation of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s commitment to support and collaborate with Mumbai-based Chanakya school of embroidery, headed by Karishma Swali. Gateway of India is one of Mumbai’s most iconic spots, but it is also right across the French luxury brand’s retail outlet inside the Taj Mahal Hotel. The craft circles have been whispering about this collection since November ’22. Local modelling agency casting calls have been subtly encouraging submissions for an “international brand show”, and allegedly wedding and space designers have been asked to submit their best marigold-inspired renditions for consideration as the show’s set.

Dior is the first international luxury brand to do an official calendar show in India. However both, YSL (in 1989, also at the Gateway of India) and Valentino (in 2004 at the majestic Asiatic Society Library steps) have presented archival brand collections here. Sujata Assomull, senior editor and author remembers watching the Valentino show, “I’ve attended shows at iconic locations in Paris and Milan, but the juxtaposition of seeing a sea of Valentino reds against one of Mumbai’s heritage structures was real sight! It’s a shame more Indian designers don’t showcase at iconic Indian locations.”


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